Janet Prescott reports from Paris

Avantex, launched in Texworld Paris for the first time, focused on technical textiles as the name implies, complete with catwalks and product information. The exhibitors in this category were loosely grouped together.

Technical features, apart from the obvious weatherproof properties, included specialities such as beauty fibre, a concept which has been around for about 20 years, without it becoming a reality.

Now, however, it is a reality with ‘wellbeing factors’ being buzz words, such Franco/Chinese developments at Camangi Corporation with Umorfil fibre, where the aim is to pursuit innovation in textile products that are skin-friendly and good for consumers’ health. It is a Bio-tech recycled-polymer based fibre with lasting skin care properties. It is composed of ocean collagen peptide and recycled rayon fibre, both of which are biodegradable.

German exhibitors such as Development Never Stops, supply brands with the wherewithal for prototypes of functional and technological fabrics, or Leipzig-based Novanex for brands wanting to break into new markets. 

One had fabrics with conductors which had the potential to supply heating and illumination, Forster Rohner Group Switzerland.

The Taiwan Textile Federation helped to select the companies from their country’s high tech participants. Handseltex Taipei Taiwan report they were inspired by the green wave and environmental corporate responsibility, they showed anti-bacterial, perfumed fabrics with four-way stretch.

CMST – IMEC showed various microsystems integrated into fabrics, including polymer photonics, micro fluids and smart power, opening the way to telecom, lighting, biomedical and television; artificial intelligence in short.

Many of the fabrics on show bore several labels, including the Oekotex certification and other features. It was interesting that some companies are producing millions of metres of technical fabrics with features such as four-way stretch, permeability many of them relating to comfort but also to fashionable areas like double face or currently fashionable.

Lenzing innovations joined the group since it proudly goes forward in a state of continual development, with ecosystems in a closed loop process a pretty astonishing feat.

From China, came Shaoxing Ruisheng Textile who have five advanced composite production lines, and all their products meet Oekotex standards.  They work with many outdoor brands such as North Land, Mountain Hard Wear and H&M. Suzhou Tianzhuo Textile include magical printing as one of their innovations.

In addition, there was a display of fabrics chosen by Texworld which showed the fashionable slant of many of these technical creations. Such protective and reactive fabrics are seen being used for pure practical reasons. Many of them after all were developed in the first place to support people brought into contact with extremes of cold or heat, unpleasant environments or just bad or hot weather. Now such concerns have been recognized as pertinent for leisure wear, walking and strolling, as well as more active sports.

Technical features are also increasingly incorporated into suitings, overcoats and shirtings. The biggest change is the wish of designers to look at fabrics in a new way and bring techie things like rubberised finishes or fabrics with different aspects into service for fashion looks while the biggest unrealised potential is the fabric as a second skin, sending and receiving messages from the brain.

So at Avantex fabrics for La Mode, there was also a selection of slinky knits and jerseys, embellished surfaces, laser cuts. The exhibition was subtitled High technology Plus Fashion for a reason.

Fashion has not featured highly in the end uses of high tech fabrics and yet the returns for the systems and finishes are potentially great, In turn the investment in technical features gives garments greater potential.

The colours of the winter season 2016/17 were there, and features like fluidity and stretch, but added and hidden ingredients could only be recognised by the swing tickets and labels.

Technical functions included moisture transference, ultraviolet protection, and wind proofing antistatic and thermal conservation. There will be more of this coming into fashion fabrics.