Innovation in Textiles (IiT): Before we talk denim, let’s talk Amsterdam. What makes the city special for you as the location for successive European Kingpins editions?

Vivian Wang (VW): Last year, we celebrated our 10th anniversary since our first show in Amsterdam. It was also the 20th year since our first show in New York, so a double anniversary for Kingpins. To give you a bit of background, we have held Kingpins shows around the world, but when we arrived in Amsterdam, it became our second home after New York.

Amsterdam is a great denim city. Many important denim brands like G-Star, Tommy Hilfiger and Denham are based there, as are many international brands, like PVH, which has its European headquarters in The Netherlands. Plus, there is a thriving denim consumer base that attends Denim Days, Amsterdam’s denim festival, and Jeans School, a dedicated fashion school for denim.

When we first arrived in Amsterdam, the mayor at the time, Eberhard van der Laan, hosted an event for our exhibitors at his home to show appreciation for Kingpins’ arrival and to thank exhibitors. To have the city embrace and support our concept was very special and frankly, unique, and it convinced us that we made the right choice to come to Amsterdam.

Amsterdam is also a fun city and a cultural centre and it’s conveniently located for European retailers and brands and an attractive destination for people travelling from farther away.

IIT: How is the retail denim market in general at the moment?

VW: There’s still a lot of uncertainty in the global economy right now, which has the potential to impact the denim business. But we are cautiously optimistic right now based on our first show of the year in New York. January is typically one of our smaller shows, but it’s a good opportunity to measure the mood of the market. We’ll have a better sense of the direction after our Amsterdam show in April and our China show in May.

But we are pleased to see so many luxury brands include denim in their collections. Their embrace of denim is another reason to be optimistic about the future.

IIT: Are there any notable trends you see emerging, or is the market nowadays too diverse to single out anything in particular?

VW: In many ways, denim is a perennial product as part of many manufacturers’ collections season after season. Typically, that means classic five-pocket styles in authentic washes. On the other hand, it’s been exciting to see all the new developments in silhouette in recent years. Add to that, the innovations in wash and finishing technology.

Kingpins shows are a mix of business, education and inspiration. One of our recent initiatives is One Denim, which explores the many looks you can create using a single base fabric. Another initiative, Future Fit Forum, invites designers to offer their impressions of where denim fit is headed in the future.

We are also seeing denim being adopted in new applications like footwear, furniture and automotive interiors. It’s gratifying to see other markets realising the beauty and versatility of denim.

IIT: As we enter 2025, the EU has now prohibited the landfilling or incineration of textile waste, with similar moves being made in California. Are the denim brands ready for this and do you see much response from the supply chain so far?

VW: Sustainability, circularity and responsible manufacturing have been central to Kingpins’ mission for many years. Another ongoing project is our Most Sustainable Product initiative, which identifies and promotes sustainable products and processes introduced by our exhibitors. It’s a blueprint for brands and retailers looking for resources to help them meet their sustainable development goals.

IIT: In terms of product development, what key fibres do you see emerging as viable alternatives to either cotton or oil-based synthetics?

VW: Cotton, of course, is at the heart of denim. Tencel is also a key part of mills’ collections. We’re also seeing hemp fabrications and a lot of interesting recycled fabrics offered.

IIT: What about stretch? How are the problems it poses for recyclers being addressed?

VW: Lycra, Hyosung and Roica have participated in Kingpins shows and now offer bio-based and biodegradable alternatives for brands looking to move beyond traditional petroleum-based stretch fibers.

We also want to bring emerging technologies to the attention of our exhibitors and attendees. For example, at our New York Show, we hosted a panel discussion on new material innovations, including Refiberd, a technology company tackling textile waste using AI-based hyperspectral imaging to accurately identify material composition.

IIT: Messe Frankfurt became a shareholder in Kingpins in July 2023, what are the synergies of this partnership you’re seeing so far?

VW: Kingpins doesn’t really operate like a traditional trade show. We draw a mix of big retailers and brands, as well as contemporary and designer labels and people across the entire supply chain. We like to say we’re more of a platform for the industry to meet, get inspired and learn. The plan is for Kingpins to remain independent and maintain the comfortable atmosphere people love. Behind the scenes, there are some operational efficiencies we can take advantage of as a division within a large global company. We are also enjoying tapping into Messe Frankfurt’s vast experience in the trade show business and plan to take advantage of their global reach to expand the Kingpins audience. But on the ground, I don’t think exhibitors or attendees will notice any change in their Kingpins experience.

IIT: Is globalisation over? How have things changed generally for the denim sector since Covid and what does it mean for trade fairs going forward?

VW: The pandemic was a challenging time for everyone. Kingpins worked to keep the industry connected through virtual events, but it was terrible to be unable to meet face to face and see new products in person. We’re thrilled to be back to in-person events. But now we are comfortable connecting and collaborating virtually – so it’s definitely a changed environment. It’s hard to imagine our industry would stop sourcing globally. Every denim-producing region has its own advantages and companies are used to tapping the right sourcing partners for the right project. What we can do at Kingpins is to curate a selection of best-in-class suppliers to streamline their sourcing and give them a place to explore what’s happening right now in the industry and what’s next.

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